May 29, 2019.
EYAM, STONEY MIDDLETON, ROUGH SIDE, COOMBS DALE, MIDDLETON MOOR, HOUSLEY, THE BULLS HEAD AT FOOLOW, LINNEN DALE, EYAM EDGE AND THE MINER'S ARMS AT EYAM
Distance: 7-8 miles.
Difficulty: Easy apart from one steep climb and descent.
Weather: Dry but mainly cloudy with chilly wind.
Walkers: Andy Blease, Alastair Cairns, Tom Cunliffe with Daisy, Mark Gibby, Alan Hart, John Jones and Jock Rooney with Tip.
Apologies: Mickey Barrett (sailing in Turkey), Peter Beal, George Dearsley (in Turkey), Lawrie Fairman, (cruise lecturing in Baltic), Hughie Hardiman (filial duties), Mark Kean (Portugal hols), Chris Owen (child-minding duties) George Whaites (in Lake District)
Leader: Cunliffe. Diarist: Hart.
Starting point: Free car park off Hawkhill Road, Eyam, Derbyshire.
Starting time: 10am. Finishing time: 1.54pm.
The picturesque village of Eyam, with its tragic history, is a magnet for tourists as well as hikers. Its greatest claim to fame came in 1665 when bubonic plague, also known as The Black Death, swept through Europe. For 14 months the villagers voluntarily cut themselves off from their neighbours so they would not pass on the deadly infection which had reached them via the delivery of a batch of cloth from London.
As families were wiped out they resisted the temptation to escape and risked their own lives instead. The story of their sacrifice has been related over the years both in literature and on film. In Eyam itself the history is told in the form of plaques outside cottages where the plague had struck 354 years ago.
It is hard not to be moved as you walk past these homes where death visited families day after day, wiping out husbands, wives and children.
Our route took us beyond Eyam to the spectacular scenery which surrounds it, walking through fields full of dazzling yellow buttercups and dandelions, purple clover and white ladies' lace. It also brought us to a traditional country pub at Foolow and to the local at the heart of Eyam itself. That, plus further grisly stories from the 18th Century, of which more later.
We exited the rear of the car park, passing a children's playground on our right and Mompesson Cottage on our left to reach Church Street, Eyam, where we turned left (6mins). On our right at Lydgate we followed a public footpath sign for Stoney Middleton (8mins)
The route took us past a cottage on our right which had been the home of William Wood (1804-65), a renowned poet and novelist who wrote Genius of the Peak and Murder on the Winnats. Coincidentally the cottage had previously been owned by plague victim John Wood, who died in 1666 but was not related to William.
Reaching The Boundary Stone (20mins), where food and medicines from Stoney Middleton were swapped for disinfected cash from Eyam, we descended into Eyam's neighbouring village, and turned sharp right to pass the Toll Bar fish and chip shop before crossing the main A623 road and following a wooden public footpath sign up a steep hill (31mins)
We turned left at Eaton Fold (32mins) to follow another wooden public footpath sign, then turned right uphill at a similar sign (35mins). After going through a wooden gate we turned left towards Coombs Dale (39mins). This brought us to a steep gully down to a stream which we crossed to reach a path which was once a quarry rail track (55mins). We turned right and stopped for pies and port at a handy bench on our right (59mins)
Continuing our journey, we went through a wooden gate (80mins) and passed Black Harry Lane on our right.
It is named after an 18th Century highwayman who regularly robbed the pack mule trains of merchants transporting goods between Tideswell and Bakewell at pistol-point. Black Harry was caught at Wardlow Cop and subsequently convicted, sentenced and hanged outside Derby Gaol. His body was placed in a gibbet on Wardlow Mires, at the northern end of Cressbrook Dale, where it was feasted on by birds from Ravensdale. Gibbets continued to be used well into the 19thCentury as a terrifying warning to would-be criminals. (In the enlightened 21st Century we have community service orders)
We continued to the end of the lane towards a quarry and turned right at the T-junction (99mins). This took us to a road where we bore right (108mins) and reached the A623 again (120mins). We turned right until we reached a road sign for Foolow to our left (124mins). At this point your diarist, with the scent of beer in his quivering nostrils, followed the sign, passing Brosterfield Farm on the left (128mins), turning left and reaching The Bulls Head (133mins) – another in a shameful list of pubs which have lost their apostrophes.
Tom led the other members of the group past the road to Foolow and turned left to reach the pub by a footpath a few minutes later. Here we enjoyed pints of Barnsley cask bitter at an eye-watering £3-80 a pint.
Continuing for the return leg to Eyam, we turned left out of the pub's front door along a road and then turned right at a wooden public footpath sign over a stone step stile (136mins). We had a lunch stop shortly after going through a kissing gate in Linnen Dale (145mins). Otherwise the route was a straight line along well-trodden paths through fields using gates and stiles.
Back in Eyam we reached the end of New Close (170mins)and turned left, passing the Post Office on our right. We turned right up Hawkshill Road (172mins) to reach our cars (174mins) to de-boot before driving to The Miner's Arms for pints of excellent Tetley's cask bitter at £3-60.
Next week's walk will start at 9.30am from the main road outside The Soldier Dick pub in Furnesss Vale. We intend to walk past Ringstones Caravan Park towards Lyme Park, diverting for half a mile to view The Murder Stone, before reaching The Dandy Cock in Disley around 12.30pm. We will then return along the banks of The Peak Forest Canal to The Soldier Dick at about 2.30pm.
Happy wandering !
Pictures by Alan Hart
Heading into Rough Side from Stoney Middleton.
The descent from Eyam into Stoney Middleton
The Bull’s Head, Foolow
Pictures by John Jones