March 26, 2025
ASHFORD-IN-THE-WATER
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH IN ASHFORD, VICARAGE LANE, PENNYUNK LANE, MONSAL HEAD, MONSAL DALE, WHITE LODGE ON A6, DEEP DALE, COCK AND PULLET IN SHELDON, KIRK DALE, ASHFORD ARMS
Distance: 8 milesTotal ascent/descent: 1,300t
Difficulty: Easy
Weather: Largely sunny. Warm.
Walkers: Peter Beal, Andy Blease, Mike Cassini, Russell Spencer, Keith Welsh, Simon Williams, Cliff Worthington
Apologies: Steve Brearley (away), Jim Riley (builders in), Mark Gibby, Dean Taylor (new bathrooms),Tom Cunliffe (seeing knee consultant), Mark Enright (w*^king), Clive Rothel (electricians), Greg Owens, Alastair Cairns (in Eden Valley)
Alternate walker: Kieran and Jock Rooney with Milly. Non-walking drinker: Alan Hart
Leader: BealDiarist: Beal
Starting point: Outside Holy Trinity Church, Ashford-in-the-Water near Bakewell
Starting time: 9.55amFinishing time: 2.23pm
For the second Wednesday in succession the Wanderers were greeted by brilliant sunny and dry weather on this trip through two of the White Peak’s more scenic dales.
Seven of us gathered outside Holy Trinity Church and walked up Vicarage Lane before shortly taking a signed footpath on the left to Monsal Head. This narrow path went up stone steps with houses on the right before emerging in to an open field.
A path bought us to a gate and wall stile leading to the broad track of Pennyunk Lane, where we turned left and followed it past a farmhouse conversion where work seems to have been under way for several years. Shortly after this the surfaced track gave way to rougher ground and we continued until turning sharp right up a narrowing path between drystone walls.
This eventually turned sharp left and then right again at another sign pointing us towards Monsal Head. Through a series of gates we reached the steep drop in to Monsal Dale at a copse of trees and turned right, following a narrow path that in places needed some care to negotiate. A short way in to the walk along the edge we caught up with Jock and Kieran, with Milly, who were doing a walk from Ashford to Monsal Head and then to Little Longstone before heading back to the village, to join us later at the Cock and Pullet in Sheldon.
Shortly before reaching Monsal Head and the pub of the same name the path dropped down a series of steep limestone steps to come to a junction where we turneddown left at a sign pointing us to Monsal Weir. Below us we could see walkers on the Headstone Viaduct, part of the Monsal Trail, an eight-and-a-half mile route along the trackbed of the former Manchester, Buxton, Matlock and Midland junction railway, built in 1863 to link Manchester and London. It closed in 1968, opened as a trail in 1981, and more recently in 2011 six former tunnels were reopened and lit during the day to make them accessible to walkers and cyclists.
This quite gently sloping path dropped the few hundred feet to emerge at the large weir where we swung left to soon come to a metal bridge taking us right over the River Wye, one of the country’s purest rivers containing large quantities of brown and rainbow trout. In a large meadow on the north side of the river a pile of logs made for convenient seating for pietime, an hour and six minutes in to the walk.
Resuming, we followed the path upstream alongside this picturesque river for just under a mile until fording a stream to reach stone steps and a stile to bring us to the A6, which we crossed to reach the Peak Park’s White Lodge car park. We crossed this to reach a path signed for our destination of DeepDale and Taddington.
The path rose gently before reaching a stone stile, accessed by either wading through a stream or scrambling up the bank to the right. Beyond this we continued along the path to reach a small limestone outcrop, where there was a junction of paths. We ignored the signed to the left for Ashford and Sheldon, and followed the sign to the right for Deep Dale.
This peaceful nature reserve comes under the auspices of the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust and is renowned for its profusion of wildflowers in the spring, although we sadly must have been a few weeks early.
We followed the path up the dale, rocky at first but becoming more grassy, for a mile before reaching a sign marking the upper boundary of the nature reserve. We went through a gate to the right and immediately left over a steep stone stile. Had we continued up the dale here a track and paths would have brought us to the village of Monyash after around 2 miles.
Instead we exited the dale up a grassy path ahead of us. This was very steep but mercifully short and dispatched in a little over five minutes to reach a wall stile. Ahead of us was a gentle stroll through a succession of grassy fields to reach a minor road above the village of Sheldon. Certain members of our party urged a diversion on us to avoid the last field because of a herd of cows, which on closer inspection turned out to be a lone horse, and we instead reached the road by climbing over a locked gate.
A short walk to the left brought us to the village of Sheldon and the Cock and Pullet pub, surprisingly busy with diners. We met Jock and Kieran with Milly here and were delighted to receive a surprise visit from Alan, who we knew was due to move in to his new nursing home accommodation today, but it turned out this was not until later in the afternoon.
He had been having a domestic sort-out and presented us with a collection of walking books and routes and, mysteriously, a collection of viagra tablets, in what appeared to be, to least to your diarist, an unfeasibly large quantity. But perhaps I don’t get out enough.
Books and tablets safely stowed in rucksacks we resumed our walk by turning right out of the pub down the village street. We passed a white cottage on the left at the bottom of the village and immediately took a small gate on the left leading us downhill through fields.
We crossed one stile and three-quarters of a mile from leaving Sheldon dropped down a steep path through the final field to come to a footpath alongside the River Wye again. This soon joined a minor road in Kirk Dale, down which we turned left to soon reach the A6, where a roadside pavement to the right soon brought us to Ashford. We crossed the road to enter the village across the historic Sheepwash Bridge.
This was built in the 17th century at a time when as many as 300 pack horses passed this way every week, carrying malt from Derby, my Peak District Companion tells me (that’s a book not a person). There is a stone fold at one end of the bridge where for centuries sheep were driven in to the adjoining field and forced to take a bath because the only exit was in to the river.
Ashford was once known for its production of ornamental black marble, samples of which are in the village church and in Chatsworth House. A black marble tablet in the church commemorates Henry Watson, who in 1748 created a quarry at the foot of Kirk Dale to hack out a dark grey limestone which had impurities giving it a black appearance. He founded a factory on the banks of the Wye, which continued in operation until 1905.
Across the bridge we soon reached our cars. Your diarist and Mike were the only to walkers to seek further refreshment. We called at the Ashford Arms at the foot of the village, long closed but reopened a year ago, and now converted in to a fine pub and restaurant, but with comfortable public bars as well. Fears of the dreaded £6 pint were soon dispelled as we enjoyed Farmers’ Blonde at £4-80, which we enjoyed in the sunshine in the well-appointed garden.
Next week’s walk will start in Mobberley, with a view to meeting up with Alan for a pint at the end. The start will be at 9.40am at Simon’s house, Beechfield, Faulkners Lane, Mobberley WA16 7AL. There is room for six cars in the drive or parking on the road. The house cannot be seen from the road but has two terracotta plant pots outside (this is all sounding a bit country squire-ish). Cliff and Simon will devise a route around Alderley Edge, finishing at the Bull’s Head in Mobberley around 2.30pm.
PS. Late news: Alan Hart confirms his move went as planned and cheerfully refers to his new abode as 'Dunshaggin' - the twilight home for the bewildered'.
Happy Wandering!