CHARLESWORTH, HIGH BANK, COOMBS EDGE, COWN EDGE WAY,
ROBIN HOOD’S PICKING RODS, SANDY LANE FARM, SYLVANDALE FARM, WARHURST FOLD
FARM, RIVER ETHEROW, BROADBOTTOM, MOTTRAM IN LONGDENDALE, MUDD, GORSEY BROW,
TRANS-PENNINE TRAIL AND GREY MARE INN AT CHARLESWORTH
Distance: 11 miles.
Difficulty:
Moderate.
Weather: Always dry
and sunny after a cloudy start.
Walkers: Mickey
Barratt, Peter Beal, Colin Davison and Alan Hart.
Apologies: George
Dearsley (prolonged Turkish hols), Tom Mud* (curry aftershock), Jock Rooney
(domestic duties), Julian Ross (visiting relatives in Northumberland), George
Whaites (dentist).
Leader: Davison. Diarist: Hart.
Starting point: Outside
the George and Dragon in Charlesworth.
Starting time: 9.50am.
Finishing time: 2.26pm.
Not for the first time, Tom suggested this walk, nominated
the pubs and offered to lead us, only to fail to turn up. This time the excuse
given was spectacular after-effects following a visit to a New Mills curry
house on Tuesday night.
We will spare our more sensitive readers the full details of
his symptoms, conveyed by Peter B. on Tom’s behalf, but lack of research about
the opening times of the chosen pubs led to his name being changed from
Cunliffe*.
On arriving at the Harewood Arms in Broadbottom after a
steep climb with powerful thirsts, we entered the pub to be told that they
would not be opening until 4pm. Detours brought us more heartache as we
discovered some nearby pubs had completely closed (The Cheshire Cheese at
Broadbottom and The Pack Horse at Mottram), while others did not open at
lunchtimes.
We then found that the George and Dragon at Charlesworth,
which Tom had recommended as our final rendezvous, did not open till 3pm.
Happily we were able to slake our now raging thirsts at The Grey Mare Inn
opposite.
It seems surprising that a habit is developing for pubs to
be closed on weekday lunchtimes, but to open their doors at 3pm or 4pm instead.
Who, one wonders, are the likely customers on late afternoons ? Surely
publicans can expect more custom if they open between noon and 2pm, close and then
reopen at 5pm when some lucky workers have finished for the day.
Suffice to say this is a trend which is not helping the
forward planning department of the Wednesday Wanderers.
From outside the George and Dragon we crossed the road and
headed uphill, passing Charlesworth School on our right and immediately
afterwards turning right along cobblestones. This brought us out at an
impressive house called High Bank where we turned right at a green public footpath
sign. For 20 yards we were heading downhill before we turned left along the
edge of a field (5mins).
We crossed a wooden stile and turned left along a lane for
20 yards before heading right over a wooden stile marked with a yellow arrow
(8mins). This was the start of a steady climb on a horseshoe-shaped ridge with
the valley below getting gradually deeper.
Eventually the ridge evened out and we walked along Coombs
Edge with a view back down to Charlesworth and a view for miles to the west. As
we descended with the ridge we turned left (50mins) instead of plunging further
downhill on the path ahead. This route becomes Cown Edge Way.
We reached Robin Hood’s Picking Rods – two stone pillars
with a narrow gap between them – where we paused for pies and port (64mins). There
are several theories regarding the history of these carved slabs of rock, which
may once have been a single column.
It could have been a Druid Stone, but most historians
believe it was carved in the 9th Century by Anglo Saxons. Their subsequent
use is also the subject of conjecture – an ancient route marker, a forest
boundary marker put there by the Normans or as a county boundary marker
separating Derbyshire from Greater Manchester.
Its name derives from the legend that Robin Hood rescued a
damsel in distress by accepting a challenge to fire an arrow at the columns
from a great distance, causing an indentation which is still there. The tale
goes on that Robin then used the columns for bending and stringing the longbows
of his merry men.
Resuming our descent we reached a road (72mins) which we
crossed and followed a green public footpath sign. As we followed the path a
large group of hikers approached from the opposite direction and introduced
themselves as The Thursday Club, from Wilmslow.
Your diarist pointed out that they appeared to be a day
ahead of schedule. However they explained that they met in a pub on Thursdays
to plan their walks for the following Saturday and Wednesday. Perhaps we are
missing a trick here...
After crossing a wooden stile we went straight ahead along a
lane (82mins), passing Smithy Lane on our left (89mins) and turning right at a
wooden public footpath sign (91mins). Colin, who stepped into the breach left
by our absent leader, is to be commended for choosing a route where not only
ripe blackberries were in abundance but there was also a supply of windfall
apples to sustain us.
After passing a
house we turned left along a gravel track (95mins) and then right before a
garage. The path took us through a wood which we left by a wooden stile to
enter a field (99mins). Keeping a drystone wall on our right we proceeded,
going over a wooden stile and now keeping the wall on our left.
Two more wooden stiles were crossed as we walked downhill
through fields (110mins). A third wooden stile brought us to the side of
cottages. Where the paths crossed we turned left (118mins) passing Sandy Lane
Farm on our right.
After crossing a road we went through an unmarked 8-barred
metal gate (121mins) and headed downhill towards some overhead power cables,
exiting the field by a similar gate (127mins). A steep descent then led us to a
wooden stile and a footbridge, followed by steep stone steps on the other side.
We turned left at the top and passed a house on our left
which was being refurbished. We went through a wood which was covered in
Himalayan balsam, the foreign invader which has formed ghettoes around
Britain’s riverbanks. We crossed a wooden footbridge, went through a small
wooden gate and then a large wooden gate (137mins).
Our quartet passed a cottage on our left and then turned
right past a duckpond on our right until the gravel tracks formed a T-junction
(144mins). We turned left, passing Sylvandale Farm and Warhurst Fold Farms on
our left. By following a wooden public footpath sign straight ahead, we crossed
the River Etherow by a footbridge and turned left (149mins) before swinging
right up Well Row.
This led us to the main road in Broadbottom where we turned
left to reach the Harewood Arms (161mins). To our disappointment, we were
informed it did not open until 4pm. An eight-minute journey down the main road
led to further horror when we discovered that The Cheshire Cheese had closed
and was no longer a pub (169mins).
At this point Peter B raised our flagging spirits with his
story that the village had been forced to scrap its annual carnival queen
contest. There had been a lack of entrants for the title “Miss Broadbottom.”
We now found ourselves going uphill for the second time,
passing the Harewood Arms and the railway station on our left, passing the sign
for Mottram and arriving at a pub called The Waggon on our right (191mins).
Despite promises to the contrary by locals in Broadbottom, it was closed.
Desperation was now setting in and Tom’s name was mentioned
on several occasions: never in a favourable light. We continued for another
mile further into Mottram in Longdendale where we found The White Hart (201mins)
was also closed and the nearby Pack Horse shut down with scaffolding
surrounding it.
Although we were told another pub a mile further along would
be open, it would have taken us further from Charlesworth and our final
watering hole. We stopped for lunch by the village stocks, which some suggested
would be a suitable fate for Tom.
Some suggested Tom Cunliffe should be puts in the stocks
Instead of retracing our footsteps along the main road, we
went back for 30 yards then turned left up Church Brow (203mins). Soon we were
in a hamlet called Mudd which we passed through on the way back to the viaduct
in Broadbottom at Gorsey Brow near
the site of the extinct Cheshire Cheese (226mins).
We turned left at the main road, crossing the Etherow and
heading uphill back to Charlesworth. At the George and Dragon we turned left
and crossed the road to enter The Grey Mare Inn with a chorus of Halleluyah
(252mins).
To be frank we would have drunk anything at any price by
that stage. The Copper Dragon cask bitter was £3 a pint, but Mickey found it
almost undrinkable and switched to Hobgoblin, describing it as marginally
better.
The Grey Mare Inn has been licensed since 1841 and was used
during the 19th Century to hold inquests at a time when juries would
view the bodies. Another pub in the village at that time might have been more
suitable – it was called The Cradle and Coffin.
Charlesworth’s main claim to fame is that in 1990, while
visiting the Peak District, Princess Diana waved at crowds of well-wishers as
she passed through it.
The route for next week’s walk has been selected by Lawrie,
who is celebrating his last birthday before becoming an octogenarian. It will
start at 9.30am from the free Torkington Park car park opposite The Rising Sun
pub at Hazel Grove and finish around 2.30pm at The Wilfred Wood VC
(Wetherspoons) on the A6. Lawrie assures me we will be informed of the halfway
pub in due course when he thinks we need to know.
Happy wandering.
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