MILLERS DALE, WYE
VALLEY, LITTON MILL, CRAMSIDE WOOD NATURE RESERVE, CRESSBROOK MILL,
CRESSBROOKDALE, LITTON, THE GEORGE INN AT TIDESWELL, LIMESTONE WAY, THE ANGLERS
REST AT MILLERS DALE
Distance: 8-9
miles.
Difficulty: Easy.
Weather: Dry,
Cloudy with Sunny Spells.
Walkers: Mickey Barrett, Peter Beal, Alastair Cairns
with Daisy, Colin Davison, Mark Gibby, Hughie Harriman, Alan Hart, Steve Kemp,
Chris Owen, Jock Rooney with Tips, and George Whaites.
Apologies: Tom
Cunliffe (prolonged Achilles heel injury), George Dearsley (in Turkey), Lawrie
Fairman (recovering from pneumonia) and Julian Ross (working in Bolton).
Leader: Davison. Diarist: Hart.
Starting point: Roadside
between Anglers Rest pub and River Wye at Millers Dale, near Buxton.
Starting time: 9.57am.
Finishing time: 2.31pm.
For devotees you can follow the exact route here
Click on the word "here" or cut and post the link below into your browser.
http://my.viewranger.com/track/details/NTk2OTQ0MQ==
For devotees you can follow the exact route here
Click on the word "here" or cut and post the link below into your browser.
http://my.viewranger.com/track/details/NTk2OTQ0MQ==
An early start, traffic delays and mobile signal failure
meant two of our 11 walkers had to make their own way to the first watering
hole of the day. As they basked in the lunchtime sunshine, having bought fresh
pies from the bakery, awaiting our arrival with pints in front of them,
Alastair and Mickey seemed to have taken this setback in their strides.
It was a trip down memory lane for Mickey, whose father used
to work at The George in Tideswell when it was an hotel, and who was taken on
trips to The Anglers Rest at Millers Dale as a schoolboy. As was the custom in
that era, commonly known as the black and white days, Mickey was allowed to sit
outside with a bottle of pop, a packet of crisps and a crayoning book. On this
occasion he regaled us with tales of his recent safari in South Africa while
drinking pints of Farmers Blonde.
Who would have guessed that the little lad in short trousers
would have become the seasoned jet-setting intercontinental traveller we know
today ?
Or that he would have such sophisticated companions ?
(This supplied picture of Mickey bears a striking resemblance to one I spotted of Neanderthal Man. Ed)
(This supplied picture of Mickey bears a striking resemblance to one I spotted of Neanderthal Man. Ed)
Mickey Barrett
Neanderthal Man
Before setting off we
learnt from a history board that the River Wye had powered many water wheels
over the centuries. That particular site had been a mill for an estimated 900
years and was run by several generations of the Dakin family until brothers
George and Thomas Dakin both died in the winter of 1912-13.
The mill closed in
the 1920s and the building was removed in the 1970s. But a cast iron and wooden
water wheel, 13 feet in diameter and 6 feet wide, made by Sheffield wheelwright
Thomas Cavill around 1860, is still there.
We walked uphill with the Wye on our right and soon passed
The Anglers Rest on our left. Once again we noticed there was no apostrophe on
the inn sign, a distressing lapse in grammar and a blot on our cultural
heritage.
We reached the hamlet of Litton Mill (25mins) with
millworkers’ cottages on our left before reaching the mill itself via a
concessionary path (27mins). The building has now been converted into
apartments.
Litton Mill, set up
in 1782 by two local farmers, became notorious during the Industrial Revolution
because of its unsavoury employment practices. Because of the lack of local
labour the owners scoured the country’s workhouses so they could turn paupers
into apprentices. It was virtual slave labour and many children died as a
result of mill accidents, illnesses and malnutrition.
The mill was
destroyed by fire in 1874 but rebuilt. It closed in the 1970s and was converted
into flats in 2003.
Continuing along the left bank of the Wye we entered
Cramside Wood Nature Reserve (35mins), crossed a wooden footbridge and turned
left along a pebbled track (50mins). We passed Cressbrook Mill on our right to
reach a lane where we turned right uphill with the Wye on our right again (52mins)
We turned briefly right for Ravensdale (60mins) but after
consultation with the map we returned to the original path and turned right
(63mins). By a wall we stopped for pies, port and wine gums (65mins).
Continuing, we crossed a wooden footbridge (75mins) and climbed away from the
right bank of the river through trees. When we emerged we had splendid views
across Cressbrookdale and beyond.
After going through a wooden gate we turned left downhill
(88mins), went through two more wooden gates and followed a public footpath
sign for Litton (110mins). After crossing a stone step stile marked with a
yellow arrow we turned left along a farm track (113mins), passing Rope Makers
Croft on our left. When we reached a road we carried straight ahead (117mins)
along it, leaving Litton temporarily behind us (118mins)
We followed a wooden public footpath sign on our right, over
a stone step stile, through two wooden gates marked with yellow arrows, turned
left and crossed a lane (124mins). We crossed a wooden stile to emerge on a
road opposite Dale House (127mins).
After a few paces left towards Tideswell we were called back
to pass the sign for Litton, re-entering the village ten minutes after leaving
it and turning left at Edgestones to the left of a cottage called Woodstock
(131mins). We followed a path uphill until we reached a road and turned left
uphill (136mins).
On our right was a field which appeared to contain
cross-bred Highland and Friesian cattle. We reached the outskirts of Tideswell
and turned left at a green public footpath sign (146mins). This brought us out
opposite The George (147mins), where we joined Alastair and Mickey, and enjoyed
pints of Hardy and Hartwell cask bitter, brewed by Kimberley, at £2-80 a pint.
We turned right out of the pub and passed the magnificent
parish church of St John The Baptist, which is known because of its size and
splendour as “The Cathedral of the Peaks.” Outside a poster advertised a display by a
troop of Maasai Warriors which was taking place inside the church on September
29.
The church had been
embroiled in a 300-year-old dispute which began when, in the 11th
Century, William Peveril The Younger granted the parish of Tideswell to Lenton
Priory. King Henry 11 later seized all the Peveril family lands in the Peak
District and the parish of Tideswell was claimed by Lichfield Cathedral.
In 1250 the dispute
spilled over into violence when armed monks from Lenton Priory fought their way
into the church, where they tried to steal wool and sheep. In the ensuing
skirmish they made off with 14 lambs. Another 18 lambs were killed.
Pope Innocent lV
fined the monks but suits were still filed in the Vatican Court and the feud
continued until Lenton and other monasteries were dissolved by Henry Vlll. The
current church was built between 1320 and 1400 and its interior was restored in
1873.
After passing the church on our right we turned right at The
Corner Chippy (150mins) to walk uphill along a road. At the top we turned left
at a T-junction, and then turned right and left up a stony track (163mins). We
paused for lunch (169mins) and then crossed two stone step stiles before
turning left along a track (178mins)
By turning right at a public bridleway (180mins) we reached
a metal gate (188mins) and emerged by a farmhouse. We turned right to follow a
track marked Limsetone Way (195mins). The path led us through a five-barred
wooden gate (197mins) and we then followed a wooden public footpath sign for
Millers Dale.
We reached a road (199mins) where we turned right downhill,
turning left at a church to reach our cars parked opposite (200mins). After
de-booting we enjoyed pints of Farmers Blonde cask bitter at £3-50.
The day ended with further drama when your diarist realised
he had placed his keys to car and house in a jacket slung over the back of his
chair – a jacket belonging to George, who had just driven off with, unknown to
him, my keys in its pocket. We alerted his passenger Colin and George made a
swift return to save the day.
Next week’s walk will start at 9.30am from the road outside
The Soldier Dick at Furness Vale, aiming to reach The Old Hall at Whitehough,
Chinley, around 12.15pm for a bracer and then returning to The Soldier Dick at
about 2.20pm.
Happy wandering !
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