Crowden Tower

November 21, 2018.

UPPER BOOTH, CROWDEN BROOK, CROWDEN CLOUGH, CROWDEN TOWER, GRINDSHAW KNOLL. GRINDSBROOK, THE OLD NAGS HEAD AT EDALE, HOPE VALLEY RAILWAY, BARBER BOOTH AND THE FICKLE MERMAID AT CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH

Distance: 6-7 miles.

Difficulty: Moderate with strenuous climb at start.

Weather: Dry and bright at start but misty with snow underfoot on hilltops.

Walkers: Micky Barrett, Peter Beal, Tom Cunliffe, Mark Gibby, Hughie Hardiman, Alan Hart, Chris Owen and Julian Ross.

Apologies: George Dearsley (in Turkey), Lawrie Fairman (recovering from knee refurbishment op), Mark Kean (Spanish hols), Steve Kemp (recovering from bone marrow transplant) and George Whaites (in Anglesey)

Leader: Beal. Diarist: Hart.

Starting point: Free car park beyond viaduct on road to Upper Booth, Edale.

Starting time: 9.50am. Finishing time:  1.58pm.

The Alpine branch of the Wednesday Wanderers set off in mild weather from the outskirts of Edale to mount an assault on Crowden Tower. This rocky outcrop on the Kinder Scout plateau, stands 2,032 feet above sea level. It provided a sharp contrast to last week’s flat walk through Cheshire fields and canal towpaths.

Overnight snow was reached as we approached the summit and it was six inches deep at some points along the route. Happily we were suitably clad for the conditions when we reached the “tower” itself where we were greeted by icy winds. Unfortunately the swirling mists obscured the views from the peak but on our downward journey we came out of the clouds and enjoyed splendid views across the picturesque Hope Valley.

We would hope to repeat the exercise next summer when we might expect to enjoy more fully the fruits of our labours. Nonetheless there was a macho feel to our group as we marched into The Hikers Bar at The Old Nags Head in Edale with snow on our boots.

As we left our cars to walk away from the railway viaduct a plaque informed us there were six “booths” in the Edale area. They were originally botheys, or shelters where shepherds could seek refuge in harsh conditions, but they had gradually evolved into more substantial dwellings and transformed into hamlets.

We followed the road into Upper Booth (10mins), crossed a bridge and turned immediately right through a wooden gate. This brought us to the left bank of Crowden Brook, which we crossed by a wooden footbridge (22mins). As the path weaved its way upwards we reached the overnight snowfall and were indebted to Peter’s local knowledge to keep us on the right route.

After reaching Crowden Tower (75mins), which is a natural rocky outcrop and has no fortifications, we followed the path on its right and began a slow descent from the ridge on Kinder Scout. As we did so a cold wind buffeted us but we soldiered on to reach the shelter of a cluster of huge rocks for pies and port (86mins)

In 1941 four airmen were killed when their Bristol Blenheim crashed into the hillside near Crowden Tower in the sort of thick cloud we were experiencing. The plane was flying from Lincolnshire to Ringway. Three airmen who were passengers in the plane were going on home leave.

Resuming we reached a cairn which indicated we were at Grindslow Knoll  (102mins), from where our descent became gradually steeper. As we walked down towards the village of Edale in the distance, we passed Grindsbrook in the valley on our left. The well-trodden path brought us to a copse of trees on our right and when we emerged we were opposite The Old Nags Head (138mins). Neither the pub sign nor that for Hikers Bar could be bothered with apostrophes.

There was a warm welcome, however, even if the Farmers Blonde (no apostrophe here either) came at an eye-watering £3-85 a pint.

We turned left as we left the pub and immediately right towards Cooper’s Cafe. In front of it we swung left down a lane and turned left at a wooden public footpath sign just before it reached a farm (143mins). The well-worn path led us through a series of fields. At the far side of a cluster of trees we paused for lunch (148mins)

Continuing we went through a wooden gate (161mins) and turned left over a bridge across The Hope Valley railway line. This road now led us through the hamlet of Barber Booth (163mins) to a bridge and a sign pointing right for Upper Booth (166mins). We followed this under the railway viaduct and reached our cars (173mins). After de-booting we drove to The Fickle Mermaid next to the A6 on the outskirts of Chapel-en-le-Frith.

The pub, which used to be called The Fallow Deer, is either named after a fairy story of that name penned 200 years ago by the Brothers Grimm or by a woman from Dorset called Paula Brackston who wrote her version a decade ago.

In the Grimm version the youngest mermaid daughter of a sea king rescues a captain who is shipwrecked in a storm. She falls in love with him but he marries someone else. Heartbroken, the mermaid throws herself into the sea where she believes she will die because of a witch’s curse. But she is saved and joins the fairies of the air, where she no doubt lives happily ever after.

In the Brackston version a woman called Gretel is working as a private investigator in Bavaria. She is called to Schleswig-Holstein where sailors keep disappearing and mermaids are suspected. I won’t spoil your enjoyment by revealing any more.

Next week’s walk will start at 9.30am from the free Middlewood Way car park overlooking   Bollington Recreation Ground. We will be heading up White Nancy and going through Rainow to Lamaload Reservoir before returning to Rainow for a bracer at The Robin Hood around 12.20pm. From there we will return to Bollington for further refreshment at The Vale, which we hope to reach before 2.30pm.

Happy wandering !