November 2, 2016.
BARBER BOOTH, CHAPEL
GATE, RUSHOP EDGE, LORD’S SEAT, MAM TOR, EDALE, RIVER NOE, THE NAG’S HEAD AT
GRINDSBROOK BOOTH, COOPERS CAFE, THE OLD DAIRY AND THE ROEBUCK AT
CHAPEL-EN-LE-FRITH
Distance: Eight
miles.
Difficulty: Moderate.
Weather: Crisp
with blue skies and sunshine.
Walkers: Peter
Beal, Colin Davison, Lawrie Fairman, Mark Gibby, Alan Hart, Steve Kemp, Jock
Rooney with Tips, Julian Ross and George Whaites.
S.O.B. walkers:
George Fraser, Tony Job and Ken Sparrow.
Apologies: Micky
Barrett (in Truro), Tom Cunliffe (sore back), George Dearsley (in Turkey), Terry
Jowett and Chris Owen (w*^king).
Leader: Beal. Diarist: Hart.
Starting point: Parking
area at Barber Booth, Edale.
Starting time: 9.58am.
Finishing time: 2.24pm.
If it be true that the sun shines on the righteous, then
Peter and George W must have already booked their places on the Stairway to
Heaven. The birthday boys enjoyed an exceptionally sunny November day in one of
the prettiest parts of the Hope Valley.
Walking conditions were perfect as the morning chill
prevented us from overheating while we climbed steadily from Barber Booth to
Rushop Edge. When we reached the cool high points, the sunshine kept us warm
and gave us magnificent views in every direction (with the sole exception of
that blot on the landscape: Hope cement works)
Owing to a miscalculation, Peter had chosen the most
expensive pub outside London for his birthday round, and was obliged to shell
out an eye-watering £3-75 a pint for his chums at The Old Nags Head. He
confessed this was an oversight and fears he may lose his status as a
Yorkshireman. George had the better of things in The Roebuck, where the
Tetleys’ cask bitter was in excellent form at £3 a pint, but there were three
B-teamers added to the cast list. We understand the celebrants shared the
outlay and Steve kindly chipped in with a bountiful supply of crisps.
The day was not without its problems, however, with Peter
delayed near his home at Birch Vale while he waited in vain for a promised lift
from Tom. It transpired that Tom, suffering from a sore back, had sent a text
the night before informing Peter he was hors
de combat .Tom appears to be unlucky with his use of modern channels of
communication, having once claimed to have received only part of an email from
me, thus preventing him from placing an order correctly. As he seems to be
cursed with ill luck, perhaps we can suggest Tom uses phone calls or telegrams
in future.
We were 13 minutes late when our leader arrived which meant
we were behind schedule at the first watering hole. This caused as much concern
as the whereabouts of Tom, who remained impervious to all our efforts to
contact him.
A plaque informed us at
our starting point that Barber Booth was one of five booths in the Vale of
Edale – Upper, Grindsbrook, Ollerbrook and Nether being the others – which had
grown up around the temporary shelters (or “bothies”) used by shepherds.
From the car park we headed back under the viaduct (4mins)
and turned right over a wooden stile (5mins) to enter a field. This brought us
first through a wooden gate on the right and then three more wooden stiles in
the space of three minutes. Another wooden gate (16mins) took us through thick
mud before we headed towards Chapel Gate – a path over the shoulder of a distant
hill.
After going through a wooden gate sandwiched between two
more wooden stiles (21mins), we could see the ventilation shaft of Cowburn
Tunnel on our right in the middle distance.
Cowburn Tunnel on the
Hope Valley railway line is more than two miles long (3,702 yards) taking the
line west out of the Edale Valley to Chinley. It was built in 1891 by the
Midland Railway. On one occasion the headings filled with water to a depth of
90 feet and work carried on in a diving bell. Nevertheless when the headings
met they were less than one inch out in the vertical and exact on the
horizontal !
When we reached a drystone wall we turned left (52mins) and
followed the path with the wall on our right until we reached a marker post and
stopped for pietime (62mins). Continuing, we crossed two more wooden stiles to
reach Lord’s Seat (64mins).This is the highest point on Rushop Edge at 1,804
feet and should not be confused with a fell and two hills of the same name in
The Lake District.
From here we began our descent, crossing a wooden stile
(71mins) and reached a road (83mins). We crossed it and took the path leading
to Mam Tor, but after 20 yards went left along an alternative path which
skirted the summit.
Mam Tor is 1,696 feet
above sea level and its name means Mother Hill. It is also known as The
Shivering Mountain because unstable layers of shale often cause landslides. The
A625 linking Sheffield with Chapel-en-le-Frith was blocked many times and
finally closed in 1979.
The path brought us to a gate (99mins) where we continued
our descent along stone flags. The main party continued before taking a path on
the left to head more steeply downhill. After going through a gate marked with
a yellow arrow (118mins) we crossed a bridge over the River Noe. This brought
us to a road (130mins) which we crossed and followed a wooden public footpath
sign,
At a wooden gate we went diagonally left along the
well-trodden path (133mins). At a gap stile (137mins) we repeated this
manoeuvre and went through a wooden gate to follow a path made of flagstones
(139mins). Another gap stile brought us to a bridge where we crossed the Noe
again and turned right along a road with Edale Parish Church on our left
(144mins).
The present church
was consecrated in 1886 on the site of the first chapel built in 1633. We are
indebted to our learned friend Mr Beal for the information that before this
date the villagers were obliged to take the coffins of their dear departed over
Hollins Cross to the nearest church in Hope. It thus became known as “The Corpse
Road.”
This route brought us to The Old Nags Head (146mins).
Pedants may have noticed, as I did, that there is a missing apostrophe in the
pub’s name. Blame the sign-writer, not your diarist, for this outrageous
grammatical error which also applied to the term Hikers Bar above the door. It
was hard to fault The Farmers Blonde (no apostrophe: you have to admire their
consistency) or The Black Sheep apart from the price of £3-75 a pint.
On leaving we turned left in the direction of Edale railway
station and followed a road with Coopers Cafe on our right. The track was
marked with a yellow arrow. We turned left at a wooden public footpath sign
(150mins) and went through a wooden gate marked with a yellow arrow (152mins).
After passing through another wooden gate we paused for lunch (157mins) and
watched a group of paragliders riding the thermals off Rushop Edge.
Resuming we crossed a stream and headed diagonally left
across a field. Two wooden gates either side of a footbridge led us into
another field (161mins) and we followed a fingerpost for Barber Booth through a
wooden gate (165mins). We crossed Bridge 58 (171mins) and passed The Old Dairy
on our right (173mins).
After crossing a bridge we turned right at a fingerpost for
Upper Booth (175mins) and this road took us under the railway viaduct and back
to our cars (182mins). After de-booting we drove to The Roebuck at Chapel and
joined the B-teamers.
Next week’s walk, known as The Phallic Route, begins at
9.30am from the car park of The Soldier Dick at Furness Vale. After a climb
into Lyme Park we plan to descend to Disley for a stiffener at The Dandy Cock
around 12.15pm. From there we will walk along The Peak Forest Canal back to The
Soldier Dick, expecting to arrive at about 2.15pm.
Happy wandering !
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